Book Notes: Delicious! by Ruth Reichl


Earlier this year, I swore to read a book a week over the course of 2014, a plan that failed spectacularly because, duh, I’m a slow reader who picks impossibly long books that couldn’t be finished inside of a week absent any semblance of a life or need for sleep. That said, I have read a LOT of books over the summer, including This Is Where I Leave You (LOVE — can’t wait for the movie!), Broken Harbor (LOVE), The Leftovers (ALSO LOVE), the Daughter of Smoke and Bone trilogy (LOVE, even though the author got a little up her own you-know-what in the final book), The Carriage House (DID NOT LOVE), Vampires in the Lemon Grove (MEHHHH, I am disappoint).

delicious

 

On our recent vacation to New Mexico, I devoured (to be clear: when I say “devour” as concerns this book, think of it as the literary equivalent of hate-f**king the fraternity brother who lives in your apartment building) Delicious! by Ruth Reichl. This is not a book that had been on my radar before a food-writing friend of mine alerted me (along with some other local food-writing women) to its existence and suggested that we get together and discuss it. So, I checked it out from the library and packed it along for the long drive to Santa Fe.

Let’s start with the good. We won’t be here long. I really like the way that Reichl drew a direct line from World War 2-era subsistence agriculture and foraging to contemporary notions of homesteading. Just like in Portlandia (“the dream of the 1890s is alive in Portland“), the dream of the 1940s is alive in Ohio … and Brooklyn, and Austin, and Omaha and so on. I also really appreciated when Reichl would demonstrate her deep knowledge of food, from the difference between winter and spring parmigiano to the various histories and uses of particular foods. That’s when her writing really sang in this novel; sadly, she would drop those lovely moments like hot potatoes in service to her hot mess of a narrative.

There is a LOT going on in this book. We’ve got the letters from a mysterious young woman to James Beard during WW2. We’ve got the death of an iconic food magazine (*cough*) and the obvious emotional trauma Reichl is working through via her surrogate(s) at said magazine. We’ve got the Underground Railroad, xenophobia against Italian-Americans, the post-WW2 “lavender scare,” and a mysterious back story and an obligatory love plot for Billie Breslin, the heroine. Reichl has embedded her novel with so many moving parts that she ends up under developing every single one of them, relying instead on tired tropes and stereotypes, down to the ugly-duckling-gets-a-makeover scene. Some people have suggested that Delicious! reads like a YA novel, but that would be an insult to YA fiction, much of which doesn’t insult its readership by telegraphing every plot development and tying up every single crappy narrative thread with an overwrought bow. 

Where was Reichl’s editor? Who was there to say, “Have you considered narrowing your focus a bit?” Or perhaps, “Have you considered fleshing out your characters a bit?” The love interest is so underwritten that Reichl might as well have just marched a cardboard cutout of Mr. Darcy into the scene for all the charisma he has.

And I’m not even mentioning the continuity and basic copyediting errors!

When my friends and I got together to discuss the book, we wondered whether it would have been published if it hadn’t had Reichl’s name on it. I seriously doubt it. I’m shocked it was published, period.

Next up: Delancey. I loved A Homemade Life, so Molly Wizenberg better not let me down!

 

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Oh hai! Happy 2014. Let’s read a book.


[Insert obligatory language here about neglecting the blog, etc. etc.]

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There are changes coming to this blog not soon, but now. How soon is now? Now is now. 

I turned this blog into a food blog a little over four years ago, when I had hit a pretty low point in the dissertation-writing process. I didn’t want to run the risk of whining about my project and pissing off my advisors, and I needed a non-academic outlet. So, I started posting recipes and meal plans and other food-related bloggy goodness. 

But then I kind of lost interest in food blogging. Partly because I felt (and still feel) like food blogging has gone about as far as it can go, and partly because I do a lot of writing about food in my professional life (both here and in the academic realm. Oh, and I guess in the book, too). 

As such, I’m branching back out in terms of the content of this blog. There will still be food-related posts, but I’m also interested in writing about the movies I’m watching, recapping Downton Abbey again, and embarking upon a project that will probably either blind me or drive me insane. 

You see, I can only name about three or four books that I read last year. For someone with a lifelong love of books (not to mention a PhD in literature), that’s an abysmal record. So, the goal that I’ve set for myself for 2014 is to read a book a week. That’s 52 books over the course of the next year. I have watched the tide of contemporary literature come and go, time and again, over the past couple of years but haven’t had my head above water well enough to keep up with it. Along those same lines, there are gaps in my literary education — I’m naming no names of the Major Books I haven’t read — and I intend to fill those in. There are lots of food titles I’m looking forward to reading, plus books by my friends, and poetry. Ah, poetry! You are the biggest gap in the reading list of my life. 

I’ve got a big stack going, plus a running list of books I plan to purchase or check out from the library. Every Wednesday, I’ll check in here about the book I just finished. I am open to your suggestions for fiction, nonfiction, poetry, memoir, and essay collections that you think I should include. 

Here’s my January syllabus: 

Jan. 1: Failure and I Bury the Body, by Sasha West (who’ll be reading and speaking at BookPeople on Wednesday, Jan 8!)

Jan 8: Let’s Pretend This Never Happened, by Jenny Lawson (a book club book)

Jan 15: Good Omens, by Terry Pratchett and Neil Gaiman (upon the recommendation of Bill and Dena’s daughter Ella)

Jan 22: Homeward Bound, by Emily Matchar

Jan 29: Vampires in the Lemon Grove, by Karen Russell

Keep checking back and feel free to read along with me! And send in those suggestions!